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Bach, Polar Bears and Kimchi Print E-mail
Written by Frank Streicher   
Tuesday, 08 November 2005
MandooParis has its Ritz , London has the Gordon Ramsay, and Chez Panisse in California is rumoured to be all the rage this moment. But one thing all these little joints are missing is the mesmerizing combination of Korean Cuisine, Polar Bears and Bach. Lots of Bach. For that you have to come to  Halifax.

Situated on the Corner of Agricola and Young, the Bach café is run by a charming, middle aged, Korean couple. Note, that the term ‘run’ is used rather loosely in this context, since time - mimicking the waiter - seems to stand still when one enters through its doors.

After having seated oneself, the first thing one can’t help but notice is that the small cozy space is made even smaller and cosier by a  rather large and  important looking stack of stereo equipment and speakers that could easily have been sacrificed  to fit in an extra table or two.

Bewildered by this technical marvel? If so, the menu is for you, since it carefully lists every single component that is being used to bring you Bach, Bach and more Bach. Just how much Bach is to be had, can be determined by another glance at the menu. There, right above the list of stereo components, one finds a comprehensive overview of the café’s musical collection. Together the two lists take up half the menu.

On the other half, the careful observer will spot the food available. It basically falls into three sections : a) Korean dished b) Pitas and c) breakfast. Here, I must confess that I have never wandered past the first section, since my stomach always does a full stop at what so obviously must be the Spécialité de la Maison . Hence, while I cannot testify as to the quality of the Canadian fare, let me reassure you that its Korean counterpart is very satisfying.

Not that the customer is given a bewildering choice. First there is the steamed or fried rice accompanied by either chicken or beef. Both are very good. Then there is the Mandu, traditional dumpling soup, as well as the Pibimbap, a mix of rice, vegetables and egg. All come in fair sizes (although one will not leave stuffed) and are accompanied by authentically hot Kimchi , the Korean version of Coleslaw. And the Price? Five whole dollars give or take a few cents.

After the main meal, the home-made green tea ice cream ($2) is something to behold. During my misspent youth,I had a brief but nightmarish stint at a Baskin-Robbins. Hence, I usually stay far away deserts below room temperature. But after having been dared to taste it during my last visit, I must admit that my dinner companion’s swooning was not empty hyperbole: the ice cream was - and presumably still is - utterly delicious.

As for the service: anyone who clamours after red-bull fuelled twenty- somethings who recite the daily specials while exhaling through a clenched smile, should better stay away. At the Bach café , the food is served slowly and methodically. Your waiter will likely be the owner, who shuffles to and from the table carrying one dish at a time.

Still, waiting for one’s food has its advantages, since the time can be spent trying to spot all the instances of Polar bears that form part of the decor. The exact nature of this fixation is a mystery , but it strangely complements the classical record sleeves that are moonlighting as wall hangings. Together they form an eclectic ensemble, one that I am willing to bet, is reproduced nowhere on this planet and simply has to be seen .

In summary: go to Bach’s café if you enjoy good Korean food , Classical Music and Polar bears. As an acquaintance from London recent proclaimed after eating there : “ we have nothing like it at home”.

Dinner in Halifax

Bach's Cafe

Time and date of visit - every week or so

Location - Agricola and North , Halifax

Number in party: 2-4

Overall rating: 4 out of 5

 
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