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Lunenburg, Puffins and Raspberries - Nova Scotia Tourism at its Worst |
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Written by D.L. McCracken
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Wednesday, 02 August 2006 |
 I remember the Lunenburg of ten years ago. It was a beautiful little town, a little on the sleepy side with a limited offering of tourist-related activities and events. One of my favourite attractions was the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic which included leisurely strolls along the wharf where various ships and schooners were anchored and open for exploration. I also anticipated with pleasure some very nice shops which sold Nova Scotian crafts and wares.
So with visions of Lunenburg 1996 in mind, I and my better half set out early one cloudy Friday morning to re-visit one of our favourite Nova Scotia destinations. We decided to avoid the main highway and opted instead for the scenic route. As we made our way along the coast we became gradually aware that the air was becoming increasingly warmer as we drove closer to our final destination. Although we didn't say it out loud I know we were thinking the same thing - we had opted for jeans according to the weather forecast that morning. We knew we had made a critical error and we agreed to place a hex on the person who came up with a weather guarantee in the first place! Up went the car windows and on came the AC, full blast.
A short time later we found ourselves in "downtown" Lunenburg and heading toward the museum area. The place was crawling with tourists. Pedestrians and vehicles alike, the traffic was eerily similar to the Armdale Rotary a day after the municipality converted it to a roundabout. At suppertime. This sleepy little town had at some point in the last ten years, awoken and it wasn't a pretty sight.
As we drove around in large circles (the Lunenburg municipality is apparently totally fixated on one-way streets) for an inordinate amount of time we concluded that we might be forced to stop and ask someone for detailed directions to the water because we sure as hell couldn't find it. But how would it look if a car with Nova Scotia plates stopped and asked a tourist from Ontario? No, we couldn't chance it. The story would become the stuff of legends in upper Canada not to mention the punch line of "how stupid are Nova Scotians?" jokes.
But about the same time that dizziness began to settle in from all that circling, we somehow found the waterfront. Don't ask how it happened because to this day we have no idea. But suddenly there we were. At the waterfront. Along with 6,876 other cars all vying for that one empty parking meter up ahead. We of course, lost the race. But wait! there's a parking lot right on the waterfront! So off we go in search of a street that would take us to Nirvana...er..the parking lot. After yet another 10 minute ride on the one-way-street-express we found ourselves not at the parking lot but right back on the same street where we fought so valiantly for that one precious meter and lo! and behold, there was another one! And we landed triumphant.
We had two hours before the meter would be demanding more loonies so because all that driving in circles had created an appetite we decided to eat first and explore later and directly in front of us was Big Red's Family Dining. Anticipating a delicious fresh seafood lunch we walked in, sat ourselves down at the nearest (and last) empty table. All around us could be heard not the sounds of the sea or whatever natural sounds that should be heard in Lunenburg but the sounds of children of all ages crying and screaming. Afterall, it was a family restaurant. For the next 10 minutes we were ignored by the wait staff perhaps because we didn't have four whining kids in tow and since the only type of clams available on the menu were strips, we quietly got up and slunk out.
On the sidewalk yet again and still famished, we were pleasantly surprised to find another more appropriate establishment only four doors down from Big Red's. Even the name was appealing and so...Lunenburg-like. We entered the Rum Runner Inn Restaurant. Looking back we should have given Big Red a bit more time to notice us sitting there.
The restaurant itself was inviting...tablecloths and white linen napkins...a very nice ambience. Even better was the patio which just happened to overlook the waterfront. We were cooking with gas now. Even the service was prompt. But there were no clams at all here. Go figure. We settled intead for the fish and chips. The waiter informed us that the one-piece fish and chips was part of today's special for $6.95 so I ordered that. My better half who considers a one-piece fish lunch to be an appetizer, ordered the two-piece which was $10.95. Now here's where it gets complicated but first to the meal itself.
The fish was fresh and delicious. The fries however were of the plain old frozen variety that anyone can purchase in a grocery store. I was hoping the fries would be homemade with perhaps skin on. There was a smal dollop of cole slaw sitting atop a wilted piece of lettuce. The cole slaw itself was slightly brownish in colour which meant it wasn't the freshest slaw in town. We could have sent it back, we could have made a fuss but by this time we're hot, sweaty and frustrated and still hungry.
So we began to eat our less than enjoyable meal and commented to each other that the setting at least was relaxing and we were being treated to a cool breeze off the water. But alas our contentment was not meant to be. Directly across the street from where we were dining, two municipal workers apparently concluded that lunchtime was the perfect time to fire up their gas-powered chain saws and go to work on some fencing that surrounded the very parking lot we were searching for earlier.
So along with the wilted lettuce and browning cole slaw, we were treated to gas fumes and the din of two chain saws attempting to outdo the other in breaking the noise decibel levels. We noticed that the men operating the saws were wearing the very latest in ear protectors and we wondered out loud to the waiter if the restaurant supplied the same protection for their customers. The waiter didn't appreciate our dark humour and perhaps that is why we were later over-charged by $11.00 for our fish and chips with ice water.
At this point I at least am beginning to get just a little bit cranky but we were both determined to enjoy the rest of the day so after climbing up what seemed like 400 steps to feed the parking meter, we set off for the Fisheries Museum. And we did enjoy ourselves despite the fact that my better half was forced to physically hold me back from jumping into the the open tank containing various sea creatures and more importantly, cool wonderful water. Cool wonderful greenish water but water nonetheless because I had started to practically hyperventilate, I was so hot.
But we both survived and eventually wandered toward the museum's exit when I suddenly spotted something that I would just have to buy. And we made our way into the museum's gift shop. I headed straight for the object of my desire - puffins. Several were lined up on a low wall and because I adore these particular creatures I purchased one for $8.95 plus tax. I was thrilled with my purchase in a gift shop that obviously catered to tourists by offering true Nova Scotia crafts, tartans, gem stones, candy and much more.
It was time to head out. We got back to our hungry meter just before it was due to be fed again. As we prepared to drive away we saw that another car was waiting patiently for our spot. After driving around town in more circles for 30 minutes including having the misfortune of finding ourselves behind a horse and carriage carrying tourists on a site-seeing tour and even passing our original parking meter a couple of times, we eventually made it out of Lunenburg and still in one piece but wondering why the town doesn't have signs saying, "THIS WAY OUT".
On our way home we stopped at an ice cream store that wasn't selling ice cream because of a mechanical breakdown. Luckily, just across the road was another store complete with a huge ice cream cone cutout. We finally got our cones and I purchased a pint of raspberries.
A couple hours later we finally arrived back home. Our day had been a series of comedies of error. We considered ourselves lucky to be alive. But we still had two more surprises waiting..
Remember that cute little puffin ornament I purchased at the museum gift shop? The gift shop that was supposed to be selling Nova Scotia wares? Hidden under the $8.95 price tag was another tag - Made in China. I was crushed. Suddenly the puffin meant nothing to me and I gave it away.
And finally the pint of raspberries. They cost $4.00. After eating 3 or 4 berries what did I find but a pint of moldy raspberries. Yes my friends, the raspberries were definitely well beyond their time. They were dumped unceremoniously into the green box where they should have been well before I bought them.
As I write this column, I have to seriously wonder if this is an example of what Nova Scotian tourism has become. Do we now purchase mass produced knickknacks and bric-a-brac from China and then offer them to tourists as distinctly Nova Scotian? All at an inflated price? I haven't yet but I am certain I will find an exact duplicate of my puffin at one of the Dollar Stores in Halifax or Dartmouth.
I can remember a day when Nova Scotia tourism was distinctly Nova Scotian, that is we promoted tourism with our unique way of doing things 'down east'. With pride and caring. The tourism we witnessed and experienced that day in Lunenburg wasn't at all representative of Nova Scotia. When did we become just like everyone else? When did the tourism buck suddenly become more important than honestly promoting and sharing our beautiful province with others?
I thought we were different. I discovered that we're just like everyone else. How sad to suddenly realize that..D.L. McCracken was hoping to include pictures taken during the trip to Lunenburg with a newly purchased digital camera. Unfortunately, the memory card sold to D.L. was defective and all 53 pictures were lost. You can reach D.L. by sending an email to
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